which of these subs will be better?

[Subject]
which of these subs will be better?
[Question]
Ive been looking at these 3 different sets of subs but cant decide on which to go with. hopefully i can get some help here. thank you! i included links.



http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/bp-p12d4.aspx



http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/cs213rg-w3v3-2.aspx



http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/08ds12l72.aspx

adrian_tmobile @ 2009-02-04 23:22:25

[All Answers]
this is only my opinion but i dont care for kickers unless they are the L7's. i like the JL's, and i used to have 2 of Orion C2's 12" subs...thye pounded....then they were stolen...:( i would definately buy the Orions again, i think they are an awesome brand. the set up i have right now is pretty pimp...take it into consideration also :) 12"Alpine Type R, then i have just a 600 watt alpine amp

Trevor S @ 2009-02-04 23:32:41

I own some Kicker subs and they are very good subs. Plus if your looking for overall boom and bass, the L7's top all the other subs.

JoeyJoey104 @ 2009-02-04 23:36:11

my advise is to get the ones with the more watts rms . but damnnnn all these are expensive i would go for some cheaper ones. out of those 3 i pick the 2nd 1 the JL's

FREZH2DEATHBOII @ 2009-02-04 23:42:25

You have a nice pricerange to spend money with, but begginner selections in products, if you would like some real help choosing a sub, Please email me at pborcich@hotmail.com and i will help you choose a sub that fits your needs.

The L7s are crap kicker has a very cheap sound to them and the square subwoofers have no sound quality because a soundwave is circular not square....

Patrick @ 2009-02-04 23:45:13

It dependes what typ of music u wana play. the kickers and orions are vented so wil sound better for different types of music compared to the JLs. I'v seen those kickers go pretty damn hard, as for the other two, not sure on the orions but JLs are good brand aswel. also the type of amp you have matters, because the orions are 1 ohm loads, if your amp cant handle that itl cause it to overheat. in terms of features, the kicker and JL win out. also, my personal opinion is the kickers look alot better :P

there are no RMS ratings on the orions, only peak power which doesn't help you. also at the end of the day, the JLs are bigger lol.

so it dpends on your personal preferences

phillz91 @ 2009-02-04 23:51:34

I would highly suggest getting direct help from someone who knows the ins and outs of subs. I am sure you want something to fit your needs and music taste. It depends on total budget, music taste, and vehicle.



For more help, fel fre to email me direct at:



lowhz01@yahoo.com

wooferman @ 2009-02-05 00:10:44

no info on the Orion's (even their web site says nothing)

the JLs would be a little bit louder because of the extra cone surface area, and the higher sensitivity IF they were in a ported box, but since they are not the kickers will be the loudest

inktownlegend @ 2009-02-05 00:18:22

[Subject]
Do i have to "warm up" my subwoofers?
[Question]
just bought some subs and was woundering if i could just start blastin them down the street or if i have to warm them up or something like that

with attitude @ 2009-02-04 20:20:09

[All Answers]
It has been with my experience that you shouldn't go from 0-20 on the volume nob but turning them up at a decent rate should not harm your subs. ENJOY the MUSIC....I know I do!!

Sher @ 2009-02-04 20:26:31

no warm up is necessary.



as long as you don't over power them, they will be fine.



edit.



Alex L's friend is the perfect example of over powering your subs. If you over power your subs it doesn't matter if they are new, or old. they will blow.

RJ @ 2009-02-04 20:29:27

Well I can tell you from 25 years of knowledge on the matter of "breaking in subs" that this particular myth was started in L.A. many years back.



Here's WHY it's a myth.



The cone moves freely (vertically), the coils are wound to a tube and attached to the cone, the surround is plenty flexible, the frame and spider mesh will flex no matter what. There is nothing else about the speaker that requires to be broken in.



I will say the T/S parameters do change over time (slightly) due to use, so re-tuning some settings may be required.



I work for a commercial audio company that installs very large speaker systems in arenas, venues and sound stages. I'm also a Peavey Media-Matrix certified audio engineer.

sparky3489 @ 2009-02-04 20:30:02

i had a friend that had a 12' MTX thunder 7500 which he just bought and right when he got it he started jacking up the volume way high and it a matter of two days he already had to get a new one. but luckily he had a warranty so he got new ones for free. ive learned from and when i bought my dual 12' MTX terminator subs i only set the volume settings low and let just got used to the bass first. after a while i gradually would increase the volume and power to my subs and after owning them for a good couple of months they sound amazing. its definetly worth the wait to let your subs gradually increase the power so there more used to the power and volume there under! enjoy them and try not to go deaf too soon!

Alex L @ 2009-02-04 20:33:49

no



just a break in period

Maxbox @ 2009-02-04 21:08:40

[Subject]
Who wants to buy a sub?
[Question]
im trying to sell this sub i have because its adding extra weight...im going racer instead of audio now...if your looking to buy a sub and possibly a sub/box/amp combo hit me up....kicker l5 12" 600w rms in a ported box with a 1000w rms amp..the sub hasnt been broken in yet....anyone interested?
whoa whoa whoa....my bad its def not 1000w rms..lmao...its a mono block...1000w/500w at 2ohm rms...so it still powers alot...beats my l5 to death
selling it for 120 or better offer...and it actually puts out the wattage displayed...price is negotiable
Mesquite, TX

kordel b @ 2009-02-04 22:36:13

[All Answers]
crap i thought i was going under water

shawn h @ 2009-02-04 22:39:45

what kind of amp is it, and how much do you want for the amp????? im not interested in the sub but i am looking to get another amplifier.

just asking @ 2009-02-04 22:51:37

This is what craigslist is for, not yahoo answers.

Patrick @ 2009-02-04 22:53:50

sure. how much are we talking?

adrian_tmobile @ 2009-02-04 23:12:24

im interestd, bt wer bouts do u live???

phillz91 @ 2009-02-05 00:15:12

[Subject]
What kind of amp wires do i need?
[Question]
Ok am getting these

Subwoofer:

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-XSL120B5D-Box-Dual-SubWoofer/dp/B000PGQ1J8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1233804137&sr=8-1



They are 2000watts



And i am getting this amp:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLA2210-2-Channel-4-Channel-Amplifiers/dp/B000CHRK72/ref=pd_sim_dbs_e_4



It is 1800 amps



So idk what kind of wire i need. At circuit city they have a kit that says it is 4 gauges and handels 1500watts. Will these work with my set up? Or if not is there a way to get to 1000 watt kits and hook those up?
Another question, Does the watts the kit says it can handle, in this case the 1500watts, matter? or is is just the gauges? like 4 or 2 or even 1/0

Jeremy u @ 2009-02-04 19:28:07

[All Answers]
Well, 2000 plus 1800= 3800 watts. This circuit needs to be separate from the rest of the vehicle. Does your alternator have the ability to handle that load? You are almost doubling what you already have. What good is all that "power" if you can't drive the rig, or can't run with the air, heater, or lights on??? Find a local alternator / auto electric shop, and let them explain the whole process to you, then you won't waste money, or time trying to do something that will just never be right.

Jeff M @ 2009-02-04 19:41:34

hehe im not a fan of either those subs or that amp... but all the same the wiring question is still legit. if you go with a kit its all easier in the long run and dont settle on one somewhere. look around because wire is one thing that can range in price a LOT depending on where you look. for 1800 watts i would actually go 2 gauge but i tend to go beefier, 4 gauge would do it though. i run only 500 watts and was reccomended to use 4 gauge. but one thing, when they send you the wiring kit, it will probably have 16 awg to use to go from amp to speakers, spend a few dollars and get some 12awg it'll be better for the amp and speakers i promise. as for the guys before mine.... you don't add what the speakers use plus the amp lol. its all in the draw of the amp. and stock alternators should handle that load fine my friend didnt need to swap out his alternator and he has a 2500 watt rms, with 5000 peak four sub system. his lights dim alittle but he runs a cap. and your not pulling that much juice.

Jarvis @ 2009-02-04 19:47:36

You will need a 4ga power and ground wire,and 16 ga speaker wire for this setup.

Al Bundy @ 2009-02-04 19:55:32

If your total system power is 1200 watts RMS or more, you will need to:



1. Upgrade the "Big 3" - that is to replace (or add to) the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis.



2. Upgrade to a yellow top battery



3. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator





Failure to do this will result in the early death of the alternator as it will eventually fail.



Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need http://www.box.net/shared/uchv4dbk88



You will need Microsoft Excel. If you don't have Excel, use this link http://www.box.net/shared/nkkw1dhk4g



A second battery is never a good idea as it's an added strain on the alternator to charge two batteries AND supply power for the car. The ONLY time a second battery is useful is if the audio system is to be used with the car off.



A capacitor is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing else. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help.



The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient.



See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com

sparky3489 @ 2009-02-04 20:28:04

[Subject]
Why does the siren that I installed keep blowing fuses?
[Question]
Ok, I've recently installed a siren on my rig. We have a tech guy who does all this stuff but he's unavailable OCONUS.



The siren is a Code 3 Model 3000. I wired it up as described in the instructions. There is an inline 15A fuse taken off of the positive terminal of the battery. The battery box is armored but that should not affect the juice flowing out of it (I think?).



The positive wire goes through the firewall and it connects to a terminal with 4 posts that distributes power to the siren itself, as well as other lights that request the right of way and say excuse me, all of which are low amp LEDs. The siren switch is a center off DPDT 6 pin rated at 20 amps. It's connected to the 100W FedSig speaker via 16ga wires. The entire system is in fact wired with 16ga with the exception of the positive lead coming off of the battery to the terminal, which is 12ga. It's grounded directly to the negative post of the battery. I tested it and it worked briefly but I had to disconnect the switch temporarily to install it in the dash. After that, it has failed to work and only blows fuses when I try to reconnect it.



Somebody help! Thanks.

lawaficionado @ 2009-02-04 20:18:36

[All Answers]
sounds to me like a pinched wire...take it or leave it.. :)

Sher @ 2009-02-04 20:27:29

thinking there might be a short somewhere

Dee Jay Thrash @ 2009-02-04 21:11:46

I would say you have the wires wrong since its a six pin, pins 2 and 5 are inputs, but 2 is ground and 5 is positive from battery, do you have them reversed?

Larry B @ 2009-02-04 22:01:17