[Subject]
i have a 94 chevy pickup and tryin to put a aftermarket stereo in it.... i found the wiring harness it was?
[Question]
it was above the gas pedal hooked in a silver box thing.... i hooked all the wires up correctly and it still don't power on there is other wires from the factory Stereo do i hook those up also to the wiring harness..... PLEASE HELP ASAP
[All Answers]
take it to the shop man
Look for blown fuses.
The plugs at the top of the silver box are the only ones that need to be connected to the new radio. The plugs from the bottom aren't required for anything, and neither is the silver box; you can remove it entirely if you want.
If you're using an adapter harness and not getting any power, then I'd check your vehicle's fuses. Remember that there are two fuses in the fuse box that supply power to the radio: one for constant power, and one for switched power. They may not both be labeled as radio fuses, so check all your fuses.
It would have been much easier if you had just bought a wiring harness that fits your truck. Those are available at Best Buy and even Wal Mart.
You can also order the correct one from Crutchfield and they will send you free wiring instructions.
i have a 94 chevy pickup and tryin to put a aftermarket stereo in it.... i found the wiring harness it was?
[Question]
it was above the gas pedal hooked in a silver box thing.... i hooked all the wires up correctly and it still don't power on there is other wires from the factory Stereo do i hook those up also to the wiring harness..... PLEASE HELP ASAP
Peanut Schaffler @ 2009-02-25 10:04:51
[All Answers]
take it to the shop man
manny @ 2009-02-25 10:12:22
Look for blown fuses.
FurbiesAndBeans @ 2009-02-25 10:13:41
The plugs at the top of the silver box are the only ones that need to be connected to the new radio. The plugs from the bottom aren't required for anything, and neither is the silver box; you can remove it entirely if you want.
If you're using an adapter harness and not getting any power, then I'd check your vehicle's fuses. Remember that there are two fuses in the fuse box that supply power to the radio: one for constant power, and one for switched power. They may not both be labeled as radio fuses, so check all your fuses.
kaezoo @ 2009-02-25 10:39:32
It would have been much easier if you had just bought a wiring harness that fits your truck. Those are available at Best Buy and even Wal Mart.
You can also order the correct one from Crutchfield and they will send you free wiring instructions.
Somethingtotry @ 2009-02-25 11:26:01
[Subject]
1999 durango speaker wires, whats pos. whats neg.?
[Question]
1 green wire, 1 black with red stripe wire
[All Answers]
Take a AA battery and put the green to positive and black to negative. if speaker pops out a lil thats the correct way. If speaker goes in, its the oppisite way (meaning black would be pos. and not neg)
but normally in cars, Black is NEG. I don't have a book and i'm at school with the site i need to look your info up blocked. I google it and it won't even let me google. sorry
The ground (secondary circuit) is the wire hooked to the car chassie or metal frame from the - terminal marked on the speaker.The hot wire coming from the stereo speaker terminal is to be connected to the + on the speaker terminal.With a volt meter test for power to determine the hot wire.Never guess which one is hot.
1999 Dodge Durango Car Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/Blue
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Red/White
Car Radio Ground Wire: N/A
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Black/Yellow
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Orange
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Green
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2″
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Light Blue
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Doors
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue/Red
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Orange
Green wire = positive
Black with red tracer = negative
1999 durango speaker wires, whats pos. whats neg.?
[Question]
1 green wire, 1 black with red stripe wire
strange1@ymail.com @ 2009-02-25 08:28:45
[All Answers]
Take a AA battery and put the green to positive and black to negative. if speaker pops out a lil thats the correct way. If speaker goes in, its the oppisite way (meaning black would be pos. and not neg)
but normally in cars, Black is NEG. I don't have a book and i'm at school with the site i need to look your info up blocked. I google it and it won't even let me google. sorry
mugzy91215 @ 2009-02-25 08:38:03
The ground (secondary circuit) is the wire hooked to the car chassie or metal frame from the - terminal marked on the speaker.The hot wire coming from the stereo speaker terminal is to be connected to the + on the speaker terminal.With a volt meter test for power to determine the hot wire.Never guess which one is hot.
Don E @ 2009-02-25 08:43:03
1999 Dodge Durango Car Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/Blue
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Red/White
Car Radio Ground Wire: N/A
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Black/Yellow
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Orange
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Green
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2″
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Light Blue
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Doors
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue/Red
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Orange
wishmaster @ 2009-02-25 08:43:41
Green wire = positive
Black with red tracer = negative
G-man 1 @ 2009-02-25 09:00:14
[Subject]
4 ohm to 2 ohm on amp?
[Question]
i have two 4ohm subs and tryin to hook it up in bridged mode to my amp but how do i make it so that the amp sees it as 2 ohms?
kenwood subs 12' 1200 watts each.
im tryin to make it 2 ohm bc i will get more bump (power) from my subs. or so ive been told?
my amp is also a kenwood kac 7204 1000 watts
[All Answers]
What model subs do you have.
If they are 4ohm SVC then you can't bridge them to the amp at 4ohms,and that amp won't handle a 2ohm load when bridged.
You can't wire your subs up to 2 ohm when bridged. Your amp is not stable at that load so you shouldn't try to wire it up that way. You can either wire one sub up to each channel or you can wire the subs in parallel on one channel. That would be pointless because it would be less power then it would if you ran one sub off of each channel.
That is assumming your subs are 4 ohm SVC. If they are DVC then you can wire each sub up to 2 ohms on each channel.
Good Luck!!!
You can't bridge that amp at 2 ohms... it will create a 1 ohm load and you will fry your amp.
I'm not even going to attempt to see if your amp can handle the load, you can read the manual yourself.
but anyway, if they are single voice coil subs (1 set of terminals) you could wire them up in parallel to get a 2 ohm load.
So it would be:
(amp) +ch1 to +sub1
(amp) -ch2 to -sub1
+sub 1 to +sub2
-sub1 to -sub2
OR
run 2 sets of wires from the same bridged channels from the amp to each separate sub.
4 ohm to 2 ohm on amp?
[Question]
i have two 4ohm subs and tryin to hook it up in bridged mode to my amp but how do i make it so that the amp sees it as 2 ohms?
kenwood subs 12' 1200 watts each.
im tryin to make it 2 ohm bc i will get more bump (power) from my subs. or so ive been told?
my amp is also a kenwood kac 7204 1000 watts
Alan @ 2009-02-25 08:44:20
[All Answers]
What model subs do you have.
If they are 4ohm SVC then you can't bridge them to the amp at 4ohms,and that amp won't handle a 2ohm load when bridged.
wishmaster @ 2009-02-25 08:53:15
You can't wire your subs up to 2 ohm when bridged. Your amp is not stable at that load so you shouldn't try to wire it up that way. You can either wire one sub up to each channel or you can wire the subs in parallel on one channel. That would be pointless because it would be less power then it would if you ran one sub off of each channel.
That is assumming your subs are 4 ohm SVC. If they are DVC then you can wire each sub up to 2 ohms on each channel.
Good Luck!!!
MDC @ 2009-02-25 09:48:16
You can't bridge that amp at 2 ohms... it will create a 1 ohm load and you will fry your amp.
FurbiesAndBeans @ 2009-02-25 09:48:24
I'm not even going to attempt to see if your amp can handle the load, you can read the manual yourself.
but anyway, if they are single voice coil subs (1 set of terminals) you could wire them up in parallel to get a 2 ohm load.
So it would be:
(amp) +ch1 to +sub1
(amp) -ch2 to -sub1
+sub 1 to +sub2
-sub1 to -sub2
OR
run 2 sets of wires from the same bridged channels from the amp to each separate sub.
repentant sinner @ 2009-02-25 09:56:23
[Subject]
Why is my subwoofer going in and out?
[Question]
i just bought a pioneer sub and sometimes when the bass his hard the sound goes out then it come back in the speakers not busted. i have it on a pioneer amp. what could be the problem
[All Answers]
It could be that your amp is overheating so the circuit breaker is cutting it off when it gets too hot and starting it back up when it cools off.
what do you mean.. the sub is going inward instead of outwards? if thats the case you wired the subs up backwards. makeing positive negative and vise versa. so make sure bout htat. and thats the only thing i can see what you talkin aobut . the sound goes out then comes back in... ytea idk. just make sure when the sub hits on a BASSY part, it goes OUTTTTTT instead of in. if it goes in. fix your connection
You might have a bad ground, too low of an ohm load. Turn off any bass boost and adjust your gains. You might be pushing that amp too much and when it's pushed a lil more, then it cuts off..
probably your amp overheating
Why is my subwoofer going in and out?
[Question]
i just bought a pioneer sub and sometimes when the bass his hard the sound goes out then it come back in the speakers not busted. i have it on a pioneer amp. what could be the problem
Alex E @ 2009-02-25 08:38:19
[All Answers]
It could be that your amp is overheating so the circuit breaker is cutting it off when it gets too hot and starting it back up when it cools off.
vatchy @ 2009-02-25 08:44:46
what do you mean.. the sub is going inward instead of outwards? if thats the case you wired the subs up backwards. makeing positive negative and vise versa. so make sure bout htat. and thats the only thing i can see what you talkin aobut . the sound goes out then comes back in... ytea idk. just make sure when the sub hits on a BASSY part, it goes OUTTTTTT instead of in. if it goes in. fix your connection
mugzy91215 @ 2009-02-25 08:47:15
You might have a bad ground, too low of an ohm load. Turn off any bass boost and adjust your gains. You might be pushing that amp too much and when it's pushed a lil more, then it cuts off..
FurbiesAndBeans @ 2009-02-25 10:10:45
probably your amp overheating
DisaR.. @ 2009-02-25 10:52:44
[Subject]
FI Q BP Option or not? Plz Help!?
[Question]
Right now I have 2 15" kickers the cvx models and My amp is a Memphis Mojo 2400 and the cvx's hit hard ass heck.. but i'm gonna upgrade to the 15" fi q's to have a little more sq and hit better on the low end! but i'm concerned about how well the Q's will hold up compared to the cvx's.. ( i do not intend on turning up the bass or gain on the amp or radio) i am gonna run the exact same power to the q's as the cvx's.. will they be fine or do i need to get the BP option? and i don't wanna have to crank the amp due to the power gain on the Bp option!! any suggestions?
[All Answers]
Look up Rms/peak on the FI Q's if 2400 watts (divide by how many subs you gettin') is between the Rms to Peak, but not close to peak, then you in the clear. It should be fine though. Can't see nothing happening unless you try to draw too much power from amp..then the amp will make you smell something you don't want to...cuz you FRIED it! but his is what i found
550 (RMS) at 4ohm
1100 (RMS) at 2ohm
1700 (RMS) at 1ohm
Fi is over hyped and overrated... a good sub shouldnt need to be "fully loaded"
Try looking into RD Audios Sonnance subwoofer... it blows the shit out of the CVX and the FI Q
http://www.rdaudio.net
Edit:
Email me for more information.
The BP power option will just add a little extra power handling to the sub. It doesn't mean that the efficiency of the sub changes. So if you power it with say 1000w RMS, for example, it will be the same output with the BP option as it would without the BP option. The BP option would just let the sub handle a little more power then without it.
If you set the gain properly you will not need to worry about the Qs blowing. With the BP option you will be able to power the Qs a little more but again, if you set the gain properly your subs will handle the power fine.
Good Luck!!!
No need to add the BP power if you give them 1000w RMS each. With the BP power, i'd say you can give them about 1100-1200w.
If you have the money, go with the BP power and just put ur amp to it's RMS power, not the speaker's power.
FI Q BP Option or not? Plz Help!?
[Question]
Right now I have 2 15" kickers the cvx models and My amp is a Memphis Mojo 2400 and the cvx's hit hard ass heck.. but i'm gonna upgrade to the 15" fi q's to have a little more sq and hit better on the low end! but i'm concerned about how well the Q's will hold up compared to the cvx's.. ( i do not intend on turning up the bass or gain on the amp or radio) i am gonna run the exact same power to the q's as the cvx's.. will they be fine or do i need to get the BP option? and i don't wanna have to crank the amp due to the power gain on the Bp option!! any suggestions?
Im_a_beast! @ 2009-02-25 07:07:52
[All Answers]
Look up Rms/peak on the FI Q's if 2400 watts (divide by how many subs you gettin') is between the Rms to Peak, but not close to peak, then you in the clear. It should be fine though. Can't see nothing happening unless you try to draw too much power from amp..then the amp will make you smell something you don't want to...cuz you FRIED it! but his is what i found
550 (RMS) at 4ohm
1100 (RMS) at 2ohm
1700 (RMS) at 1ohm
mugzy91215 @ 2009-02-25 08:44:58
Fi is over hyped and overrated... a good sub shouldnt need to be "fully loaded"
Try looking into RD Audios Sonnance subwoofer... it blows the shit out of the CVX and the FI Q
http://www.rdaudio.net
Edit:
Email me for more information.
Patrick @ 2009-02-25 09:29:02
The BP power option will just add a little extra power handling to the sub. It doesn't mean that the efficiency of the sub changes. So if you power it with say 1000w RMS, for example, it will be the same output with the BP option as it would without the BP option. The BP option would just let the sub handle a little more power then without it.
If you set the gain properly you will not need to worry about the Qs blowing. With the BP option you will be able to power the Qs a little more but again, if you set the gain properly your subs will handle the power fine.
Good Luck!!!
MDC @ 2009-02-25 09:57:54
No need to add the BP power if you give them 1000w RMS each. With the BP power, i'd say you can give them about 1100-1200w.
If you have the money, go with the BP power and just put ur amp to it's RMS power, not the speaker's power.
FurbiesAndBeans @ 2009-02-25 10:07:55
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