[Subject]
what is the best sounding subwoofer for 500 RMS?
[Question]
going on a Alpine MRP500. dont want to spend more then 200 for the sub.
[All Answers]
I would go with this sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR1042/Alpine-SWR-1042D.html?showAll=N&tp=111
OR
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR1242/Alpine-SWR-1242D.html?showAll=N&tp=111
Wire the sub to a 2 ohm load (first pic on link): http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42
kicker cvr
kicker comps
alping type r's
uhhh
rockford fosgate p1's and 2's
mtx jackhammer 12's
there are many.
toby speakers 2 10 with box and warinty
500$
12" Alpine Type R. . .period.
To get them under 200, you'll have to get them off of Amazon. In best buy, they're close to 300.
These things are monsters.
I recently bought 2 10" Q-power subs at 450 rms to go with my 10" Audio Bahns, and they bang very hard....I had 2 sony's in there at first with the audiobahns and when i took them out and put in the q-powers...there was a world of difference
I would put image dynamics IDQ12 good bass and sq.
what is the best sounding subwoofer for 500 RMS?
[Question]
going on a Alpine MRP500. dont want to spend more then 200 for the sub.
John K @ 2009-04-16 11:16:49
[All Answers]
I would go with this sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR1042/Alpine-SWR-1042D.html?showAll=N&tp=111
OR
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR1242/Alpine-SWR-1242D.html?showAll=N&tp=111
Wire the sub to a 2 ohm load (first pic on link): http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42
John Doe @ 2009-04-16 11:29:30
kicker cvr
kicker comps
alping type r's
uhhh
rockford fosgate p1's and 2's
mtx jackhammer 12's
there are many.
Josh @ 2009-04-16 11:30:15
toby speakers 2 10 with box and warinty
500$
budicepussyweed @ 2009-04-16 11:31:01
12" Alpine Type R. . .period.
To get them under 200, you'll have to get them off of Amazon. In best buy, they're close to 300.
These things are monsters.
Genius16 @ 2009-04-16 11:33:11
I recently bought 2 10" Q-power subs at 450 rms to go with my 10" Audio Bahns, and they bang very hard....I had 2 sony's in there at first with the audiobahns and when i took them out and put in the q-powers...there was a world of difference
highjumper205 @ 2009-04-16 11:46:35
I would put image dynamics IDQ12 good bass and sq.
Michael @ 2009-04-16 11:50:29
[Subject]
which amp out of the 2 would beat the loudest?
[Question]
hey i wanna get 2 15 l7s, but i wanna know what amp will hit harder so i know what ohm of l7 to get.....hifonics brutus 2000wat or kicker zx1500.1 thanks!
[All Answers]
go for the one with the bigger watage... kinda obvious...
I would go with the Kicker amp b/c Kicker stuff is underrated which means more watts than it says. You should look at the 18" FI BTL (1 or 2 ohm DVC) (2000W RMS) ($414.00)
Those are both excellent amps. Alot of people don't like Hifonics but they are misinformed alot of times. I personally would go with the Kicker amp because it is VERY underrated and will put out close to 2000 watts and I personally like the quality better, unless there is a huge difference in price I would roll with the Kicker all day long...This is just my opinion though..
DEFF the kicker amp.
that amp is amazing!
which amp out of the 2 would beat the loudest?
[Question]
hey i wanna get 2 15 l7s, but i wanna know what amp will hit harder so i know what ohm of l7 to get.....hifonics brutus 2000wat or kicker zx1500.1 thanks!
hanginin90 @ 2009-04-16 10:48:36
[All Answers]
go for the one with the bigger watage... kinda obvious...
bomberb0 @ 2009-04-16 10:55:36
I would go with the Kicker amp b/c Kicker stuff is underrated which means more watts than it says. You should look at the 18" FI BTL (1 or 2 ohm DVC) (2000W RMS) ($414.00)
John Doe @ 2009-04-16 11:03:54
Those are both excellent amps. Alot of people don't like Hifonics but they are misinformed alot of times. I personally would go with the Kicker amp because it is VERY underrated and will put out close to 2000 watts and I personally like the quality better, unless there is a huge difference in price I would roll with the Kicker all day long...This is just my opinion though..
Joe @ 2009-04-16 11:30:44
DEFF the kicker amp.
that amp is amazing!
Josh @ 2009-04-16 11:31:25
[Subject]
Need help deciding what subwoofer to buy!!!?
[Question]
Please help me decide what subwoofers to get i need 2 12s here are a few that i was looking at.
-Kenwood
http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD-IN-CAR-SPEAKER-12-SUBWOOFER-SUB-WOOFER-CHEAP_W0QQitemZ330321756341QQihZ014QQcategoryZ18805QQcmdZViewItem
-Infinity
http://cgi.ebay.com/INFINITY-REFERENCE-1252-W-CAR-12-SUBWOOFER-SUB-WOOFER_W0QQitemZ390043518016QQihZ026QQcategoryZ18805QQcmdZViewItem
-Kicker
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-CVR12-CAR-AUDIO-STEREO-SUB-WOOFER-CVR-12-COMP-VR_W0QQitemZ330322571268QQihZ014QQcategoryZ18805QQcmdZViewItem
-Legacy
http://cgi.ebay.com/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390038157203
-Rockford Fosgate Punch
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-ROCKFORD-PUNCH-P3SD212-IN-CAR-12-SHALLOW-SUB-WOOFERS_W0QQitemZ360144260490QQihZ023QQcategoryZ18805QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Im driving a Cobalt i listen to rap and i just went to a car audio place and they recommended JL 12s in a ported box for $350. any good?
[All Answers]
neither of those.. their all junk, especially the kenwood subs.. sound terrible, DEFFINATLY not legacy
best there is the kicker cvr... the rockford fosgate is good, except their shallow mount subs.. and those really are only needed in small trucks and stuff.. you would get more from the CVR
but also look into MTX or alpine. the mtx thunder 4500 subwoofer can pound if powered right, i used to have 2 12" mtx thunder 4500 subs with an alpine mrp m-450 amp..out pounded several 15" set ups, and got really loud
the alpine type-r subwoofer is nice too
but of all those choices.. deffinatly the kicker CVR
I would either get the kicker of the rockford fosgate. both are very nice!
Ok dude, first of all, don't listen to jerkwads like the first answer you got. All of those companies have something good going for them. Those who just say "they are all junk" are ignorant and don't know squat. I am a Kicker fan...BIG TIME. Depending on your application, Kicker makes a sub that will suit your needs. I ran an L7 12" before, and it pounded...Now I run a Solo X 12...and I just hit 145.7 db a week ago. CVRs are good subs....Comps are good subs. It depends on alot...like what kind of music you listen to, or what you plan to do...just listen to it for enjoyment...or get serious and enter SPL competitions. If it was me...I'd go Kicker any day of the week. They have been boomin for 30 years....and they will continue until the world is unable to hear anymore....then the world will still be able to feel the vibrations from 100 feet away!
Man all those subs suck go with JL audio or IMAGE DYNAMICS IDQ for sq or IDMAX for sq and spl i have 4 IDQ 12s and i hit in the mid 150s and it sounds good.So no kicker they suck you can go to woffersetc.com to see the subs.
Need help deciding what subwoofer to buy!!!?
[Question]
Please help me decide what subwoofers to get i need 2 12s here are a few that i was looking at.
-Kenwood
http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD-IN-CAR-SPEAKER-12-SUBWOOFER-SUB-WOOFER-CHEAP_W0QQitemZ330321756341QQihZ014QQcategoryZ18805QQcmdZViewItem
-Infinity
http://cgi.ebay.com/INFINITY-REFERENCE-1252-W-CAR-12-SUBWOOFER-SUB-WOOFER_W0QQitemZ390043518016QQihZ026QQcategoryZ18805QQcmdZViewItem
-Kicker
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-CVR12-CAR-AUDIO-STEREO-SUB-WOOFER-CVR-12-COMP-VR_W0QQitemZ330322571268QQihZ014QQcategoryZ18805QQcmdZViewItem
-Legacy
http://cgi.ebay.com/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390038157203
-Rockford Fosgate Punch
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-ROCKFORD-PUNCH-P3SD212-IN-CAR-12-SHALLOW-SUB-WOOFERS_W0QQitemZ360144260490QQihZ023QQcategoryZ18805QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Im driving a Cobalt i listen to rap and i just went to a car audio place and they recommended JL 12s in a ported box for $350. any good?
Tom P @ 2009-04-16 07:05:42
[All Answers]
neither of those.. their all junk, especially the kenwood subs.. sound terrible, DEFFINATLY not legacy
best there is the kicker cvr... the rockford fosgate is good, except their shallow mount subs.. and those really are only needed in small trucks and stuff.. you would get more from the CVR
but also look into MTX or alpine. the mtx thunder 4500 subwoofer can pound if powered right, i used to have 2 12" mtx thunder 4500 subs with an alpine mrp m-450 amp..out pounded several 15" set ups, and got really loud
the alpine type-r subwoofer is nice too
but of all those choices.. deffinatly the kicker CVR
edwards1337 @ 2009-04-16 07:10:33
I would either get the kicker of the rockford fosgate. both are very nice!
Ben @ 2009-04-16 07:12:02
Ok dude, first of all, don't listen to jerkwads like the first answer you got. All of those companies have something good going for them. Those who just say "they are all junk" are ignorant and don't know squat. I am a Kicker fan...BIG TIME. Depending on your application, Kicker makes a sub that will suit your needs. I ran an L7 12" before, and it pounded...Now I run a Solo X 12...and I just hit 145.7 db a week ago. CVRs are good subs....Comps are good subs. It depends on alot...like what kind of music you listen to, or what you plan to do...just listen to it for enjoyment...or get serious and enter SPL competitions. If it was me...I'd go Kicker any day of the week. They have been boomin for 30 years....and they will continue until the world is unable to hear anymore....then the world will still be able to feel the vibrations from 100 feet away!
35 YEARS OF INTUITION @ 2009-04-16 09:01:03
Man all those subs suck go with JL audio or IMAGE DYNAMICS IDQ for sq or IDMAX for sq and spl i have 4 IDQ 12s and i hit in the mid 150s and it sounds good.So no kicker they suck you can go to woffersetc.com to see the subs.
Michael @ 2009-04-16 12:04:11
[Subject]
Lights went out on dash in my car and start up noise sounds weak, what's wrong with my car?
[Question]
I have a 98 Dodge Neon Sport with a 96 engine and I have a bit of an issue. I was driving home last night and all of a sudden, my lights went out in my car, like on the dash, radio, and my blinker lights, brights, and seat belt lights were the only thing lit up, like it was restarting or something. I tried turning off my headlights for a second and turning them back on but with no success, although my headlights and blinkers worked fine. Then this morning I had to move my car and when I started it up, the dinging noise that you hear when a car starts up sounded weak like it was dying. Any ideas what could be happening to my car?
[All Answers]
It could be a loose connection on the battery connection or maybe a old battery. Car batteries are suppose to be good for at least 10 years, at least most of them are. Go to Auto zone and get a free battery check. But that is what it sounds like to me.
it may be your Alternator going that is a sign we see often in older cars. or it may be an electric problem.take your car to have the alternator checked..
Sounds like a weak battery possibly caused by alternator belt failure or alternator fault resulting in battery not being re charged correctly or possibly even a faulty battery which can all be easily checked by @ with a modicum of knowledge !!
Lights went out on dash in my car and start up noise sounds weak, what's wrong with my car?
[Question]
I have a 98 Dodge Neon Sport with a 96 engine and I have a bit of an issue. I was driving home last night and all of a sudden, my lights went out in my car, like on the dash, radio, and my blinker lights, brights, and seat belt lights were the only thing lit up, like it was restarting or something. I tried turning off my headlights for a second and turning them back on but with no success, although my headlights and blinkers worked fine. Then this morning I had to move my car and when I started it up, the dinging noise that you hear when a car starts up sounded weak like it was dying. Any ideas what could be happening to my car?
truemornings @ 2009-04-16 07:54:12
[All Answers]
It could be a loose connection on the battery connection or maybe a old battery. Car batteries are suppose to be good for at least 10 years, at least most of them are. Go to Auto zone and get a free battery check. But that is what it sounds like to me.
UknowNSouL @ 2009-04-16 08:02:55
it may be your Alternator going that is a sign we see often in older cars. or it may be an electric problem.take your car to have the alternator checked..
Laura @ 2009-04-16 08:07:24
Sounds like a weak battery possibly caused by alternator belt failure or alternator fault resulting in battery not being re charged correctly or possibly even a faulty battery which can all be easily checked by @ with a modicum of knowledge !!
Bvr1x @ 2009-04-16 08:16:44
[Subject]
Capacitor question, any help?
[Question]
I have a 06 corolla
and I have a 10 in type r
with a sony xplod amp 1200w(1200 watts peak power; 500W RMS power)
my headlights dim, and its annoying. I was thinking about getting a capacitor, but dont know how many F I need. Or even if it will really help.
any suggestions? Thanks in advance
[All Answers]
A capacitor is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing else. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help. The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient. A cap does it's best to keep the voltage at a certain level, but if the voltage changes so will the cap voltage. The cap just makes the change smoother. The diming light syndrome isn't a voltage issue but rather a current (amperage) drop. The voltage simply follows what the current does. A cap does not help this situation at all. A cap doesn't provide more power nor does it try to correct it.
therefor a capacitor will NOT benefit you at all and stop your light dimming, which will be a complete waste of your money since it will not be doing anything for you
you will need to upgrade the big three.. here is a great thread on it:
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355
doing the big three should fix all your problems since it is only 500rms going through, but if that doesnt work you will need to upgrade your starting battery to either an optima YELLOW top or kinetik hc1400 powercell, and possibly upgrade to a high output alternator
The key in these cases is the alternator's voltage regulator. What's happening is your voltage is dropping when the bass hits because the big amp needs lots of power. The alternator's voltage regulator senses this and adjusts the voltage for your car to compensate for this voltage drop. Consequently there will be more available current with the rise in voltage.
So now there needs to be some kind of a buffer so your amp can get its current without stealing it from your headlights and other electronics. And contrary to what all the cap-bashing bandwagoners say, this is what these caps were made for, not to stiffen voltage (whatever the heck "stiffen" means), and it works very well when used correctly. It releases its stored current much faster that the alternator's voltage regulator can up the voltage. That's exactly why the dips in voltage are smoothed out, and why your lights won't dim if you use a cap.
For your system, you can get your alternator and battery tested for free, and if they're still in good shape .5 Farad is recommended for 500 watts, but I think a 1 farad cap would work great. good luck!
Yes you need a cap but get a stinger hybrid i have 10 farad on 4 image dynamics IDQ10 and 3 zapco amp and i works just fine but make its a hybrid.
Capacitor question, any help?
[Question]
I have a 06 corolla
and I have a 10 in type r
with a sony xplod amp 1200w(1200 watts peak power; 500W RMS power)
my headlights dim, and its annoying. I was thinking about getting a capacitor, but dont know how many F I need. Or even if it will really help.
any suggestions? Thanks in advance
Tim L @ 2009-04-16 08:39:32
[All Answers]
A capacitor is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing else. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help. The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient. A cap does it's best to keep the voltage at a certain level, but if the voltage changes so will the cap voltage. The cap just makes the change smoother. The diming light syndrome isn't a voltage issue but rather a current (amperage) drop. The voltage simply follows what the current does. A cap does not help this situation at all. A cap doesn't provide more power nor does it try to correct it.
therefor a capacitor will NOT benefit you at all and stop your light dimming, which will be a complete waste of your money since it will not be doing anything for you
you will need to upgrade the big three.. here is a great thread on it:
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355
doing the big three should fix all your problems since it is only 500rms going through, but if that doesnt work you will need to upgrade your starting battery to either an optima YELLOW top or kinetik hc1400 powercell, and possibly upgrade to a high output alternator
edwards1337 @ 2009-04-16 08:52:51
The key in these cases is the alternator's voltage regulator. What's happening is your voltage is dropping when the bass hits because the big amp needs lots of power. The alternator's voltage regulator senses this and adjusts the voltage for your car to compensate for this voltage drop. Consequently there will be more available current with the rise in voltage.
So now there needs to be some kind of a buffer so your amp can get its current without stealing it from your headlights and other electronics. And contrary to what all the cap-bashing bandwagoners say, this is what these caps were made for, not to stiffen voltage (whatever the heck "stiffen" means), and it works very well when used correctly. It releases its stored current much faster that the alternator's voltage regulator can up the voltage. That's exactly why the dips in voltage are smoothed out, and why your lights won't dim if you use a cap.
For your system, you can get your alternator and battery tested for free, and if they're still in good shape .5 Farad is recommended for 500 watts, but I think a 1 farad cap would work great. good luck!
Bill D @ 2009-04-16 11:19:05
Yes you need a cap but get a stinger hybrid i have 10 farad on 4 image dynamics IDQ10 and 3 zapco amp and i works just fine but make its a hybrid.
Michael @ 2009-04-16 11:58:49
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