[Subject]
Good Sound System for my truck?
[Question]
I want to buy a good sound system for my truck, i live in the los angeles area, does anyone know where they give some good prices, and also what kind of sound system will fit a ford f-150 2006 truck
[All Answers]
Is it extended cab? IF not, not much you can do. If it is, remove the back seats buy 4-15" Volfenhags. These SLAM, and as for good prices order online. You will get the best prices without the BS.
Well idk what pricing would be in your area, but I used to have a f-150 and I had a speaker box with two tens in it, a 5x7 in each door, four tweeters and a 500 watt amp pushing all of it, all made by pioneer.
Pioneer's more expensive but I wouldn't put anything else in my car or truck.
But let me tell you, that truck was beatin, HARD.
check out http://www.crutchfield.com and select your truck and it wil tell you what will fit and gives prices.
Hey man if it not extended cab you can get few shallow mount subwoofer they not much if you order online like 100 - 200 but if extended cab you can get box built under your back seat or you can get custom box were you can still have your back seat don't listen to bodyrot he stuck on Volfenhags which you don't want in truck.
Volfenhag, are you serious? Might as well give me your money and let me kick you in the nuts.
Even if single cab, you have room to work with in the newer F-150's. We have a few boxes we built that do great in there.
Mainly going to depend on your budget for what you can get. LEt me know your budget, and exact truck and I can help.
Emial me direct.
lowhz01@yahoo.com
jl makes some really good thin subs made for trucks, get on their site and check them out
Good Sound System for my truck?
[Question]
I want to buy a good sound system for my truck, i live in the los angeles area, does anyone know where they give some good prices, and also what kind of sound system will fit a ford f-150 2006 truck
Yankeeman @ 2009-04-30 09:11:12
[All Answers]
Is it extended cab? IF not, not much you can do. If it is, remove the back seats buy 4-15" Volfenhags. These SLAM, and as for good prices order online. You will get the best prices without the BS.
Bodyrot @ 2009-04-30 09:19:31
Well idk what pricing would be in your area, but I used to have a f-150 and I had a speaker box with two tens in it, a 5x7 in each door, four tweeters and a 500 watt amp pushing all of it, all made by pioneer.
Pioneer's more expensive but I wouldn't put anything else in my car or truck.
But let me tell you, that truck was beatin, HARD.
Starieberry @ 2009-04-30 09:42:29
check out http://www.crutchfield.com and select your truck and it wil tell you what will fit and gives prices.
keithaz24 @ 2009-04-30 10:08:39
Hey man if it not extended cab you can get few shallow mount subwoofer they not much if you order online like 100 - 200 but if extended cab you can get box built under your back seat or you can get custom box were you can still have your back seat don't listen to bodyrot he stuck on Volfenhags which you don't want in truck.
crazi_matt87 @ 2009-04-30 10:37:26
Volfenhag, are you serious? Might as well give me your money and let me kick you in the nuts.
Even if single cab, you have room to work with in the newer F-150's. We have a few boxes we built that do great in there.
Mainly going to depend on your budget for what you can get. LEt me know your budget, and exact truck and I can help.
Emial me direct.
lowhz01@yahoo.com
wooferman @ 2009-04-30 10:51:03
jl makes some really good thin subs made for trucks, get on their site and check them out
johnelwayfan_7 @ 2009-04-30 11:41:31
[Subject]
Why does the tiny LED light next to the cassette player flash when engine is turned off?
[Question]
"I own a 2002 Trailblazer. There is a tiny LED light next to the cassette player that flashes when the engine is turned off. Have never noticed this before. Anyone know what it means?"
[All Answers]
Anti-theft protection. At least on my car, all this means is you can't remove the tape/cd while the car is turned off.
Theft Protection
There's a bomb strapped to the car and if you don't drive faster than 50 mph it will explode...
It will be theft protection but it''s not to look the cassette or cd it's to tell people that the radio has a code and if disconnected it will need this to work again
It means that the Theftlock II system built into the factory radio is active. Theftlock is a GM anti-theft system that locks the radio functions if it's used in a different vehicle than the one in which it was originally installed. The system in your radio is advanced enough that it can read the vehicle's VIN through the data bus system. That means it should work fine in your vehicle, even if you lose battery power for a while, but won't work in any other vehicle unless it's reset by a GM dealer.
In short, it's not something you'll need to worry about unless you want to move your factory radio into a different vehicle.
Why does the tiny LED light next to the cassette player flash when engine is turned off?
[Question]
"I own a 2002 Trailblazer. There is a tiny LED light next to the cassette player that flashes when the engine is turned off. Have never noticed this before. Anyone know what it means?"
jms @ 2009-04-30 10:01:17
[All Answers]
Anti-theft protection. At least on my car, all this means is you can't remove the tape/cd while the car is turned off.
Bodyrot @ 2009-04-30 10:05:44
Theft Protection
Harley guy @ 2009-04-30 10:06:37
There's a bomb strapped to the car and if you don't drive faster than 50 mph it will explode...
redwormchuck @ 2009-04-30 10:08:37
It will be theft protection but it''s not to look the cassette or cd it's to tell people that the radio has a code and if disconnected it will need this to work again
Darren M @ 2009-04-30 10:09:13
It means that the Theftlock II system built into the factory radio is active. Theftlock is a GM anti-theft system that locks the radio functions if it's used in a different vehicle than the one in which it was originally installed. The system in your radio is advanced enough that it can read the vehicle's VIN through the data bus system. That means it should work fine in your vehicle, even if you lose battery power for a while, but won't work in any other vehicle unless it's reset by a GM dealer.
In short, it's not something you'll need to worry about unless you want to move your factory radio into a different vehicle.
KaeZoo @ 2009-04-30 12:01:31
[Subject]
Fi btl 18" or Fi bl 18" or Orion HCCA 15.2?
[Question]
Ok i have decied to go with 1(for now) huge and powerful sub, at first i was planning to get ethier 2 l7 15s, or 2 cvx's 15s. Then i founded the Orion HCCA 15.2. and i look at a lot of reviews on it and many people said they trade in their dual subs (inculeding 2 08 l7 15s) for this one sub and they were very happy with the upgrade. And Fi speakers for their self, but i don't know what 1 is the best for me, of course the btl is more powerful and is the top of the line, the bl is loud to and made as more of a daily driver, and cheaper. Im looking for the one that will knock pics of the walls, but is also good for a daily driver. If i get 1 of the bl's or btl's and im looking for spl, and want to be heard should i go with the SPL option? will the live of the sub go down? With 1 should i get i want to be HEARD beating down the block, turning heads, and KNOCKING pics of walls when i drive by? The Btl, Bl, or Orion? another quick question how far can these be heard coming from? PLEASE help me!
The Amp i have is a Hifonics BXi 2008D 2000rms, and i have a yellow top with a new bigger alternator.
[All Answers]
Narrow it down to either Fi speaker, but I'd be more concerned about the power you are supplying to the speaker than the speaker itself. Those things can eat power like none other without giving you the best output. There are other drivers available that I might recommend that can put out more sound for lesser amounts of power (higher sensitivity). Check out Audiopulse, DD, Elemental Designs.
George (the guy who posted below me), please don't talk as if you know everything about SPL drag if you are still using Power Acoustik garbage. You might call it a BAMF, but my Zapco would annihilate it. I am an SPL champ and have been so for years, and Power Acoustik is towards the lowest end of car audio. They even bought out PPI and turned them into a mockery too. If the man wants performance that would blow that Orion's out of the water, he should go DD or Audiopulse. Good call on the Elemental's, I haven't worked with them in a while so thats okay if i'm a touch out of date.
Anthony, if you do not know the answer to the question stop grabbing at nothing. Elemental Designs only makes 1 sub that will comes close to what this guy is wanting and that is the 13AV.2, and honestly it can not compete with the HCCA 15 at all. I have personally heard the 13AV.2, very good sub, but can not compete with the HCCA, or the FI BTL. The BTL will consume major amounts of power, will sound good doing so, but it will consume much more than you would really care for it to consume. I own a HCCA 12.2 running off of a Power Acoustik BAMF 5500/1 (3200 watts rms) and it sounds amazing. Sitting in my driveway with the bass up and volume up things hanging on the walls throughout the house were rattling, my wife told me to turn it down before things start falling.
First of all you need to do a lot of testing and designing if you want to win competitions. Before you even decide whether to go with a BL or a BTL you need choose a good amp. Sundown Audio, Incriminator Audio, Zapco, Rockford Fosgate. Those are four brands that would push a SPL vehicle nicely. But with my honest opinion, I don't recommend Fi. I have owned a few of their subs, including the BTL. The company doesn't provide T/s Params so you cant really do top notch competitions with it. If you want attention, go with two Incriminator Audio 21" Death Penaltys and a Sundown 3500d. Good Luck.
dude the orion is the best out of three, just go to youtube and watch videos and they will show you
Anthony, what org do you compete in? What class are you a champion in? I am interested in this.
As for topic, if you want to be heard and get loud I would look more for a SQL sub. Something that can "hit" with authority low and nasty. Higher frequency's do not knock pictures off walls, 30hz does :)
I can help you out, email me direct..
lowhz01@yahoo.com
Fi btl 18" or Fi bl 18" or Orion HCCA 15.2?
[Question]
Ok i have decied to go with 1(for now) huge and powerful sub, at first i was planning to get ethier 2 l7 15s, or 2 cvx's 15s. Then i founded the Orion HCCA 15.2. and i look at a lot of reviews on it and many people said they trade in their dual subs (inculeding 2 08 l7 15s) for this one sub and they were very happy with the upgrade. And Fi speakers for their self, but i don't know what 1 is the best for me, of course the btl is more powerful and is the top of the line, the bl is loud to and made as more of a daily driver, and cheaper. Im looking for the one that will knock pics of the walls, but is also good for a daily driver. If i get 1 of the bl's or btl's and im looking for spl, and want to be heard should i go with the SPL option? will the live of the sub go down? With 1 should i get i want to be HEARD beating down the block, turning heads, and KNOCKING pics of walls when i drive by? The Btl, Bl, or Orion? another quick question how far can these be heard coming from? PLEASE help me!
The Amp i have is a Hifonics BXi 2008D 2000rms, and i have a yellow top with a new bigger alternator.
Tron T @ 2009-04-30 05:50:18
[All Answers]
Narrow it down to either Fi speaker, but I'd be more concerned about the power you are supplying to the speaker than the speaker itself. Those things can eat power like none other without giving you the best output. There are other drivers available that I might recommend that can put out more sound for lesser amounts of power (higher sensitivity). Check out Audiopulse, DD, Elemental Designs.
George (the guy who posted below me), please don't talk as if you know everything about SPL drag if you are still using Power Acoustik garbage. You might call it a BAMF, but my Zapco would annihilate it. I am an SPL champ and have been so for years, and Power Acoustik is towards the lowest end of car audio. They even bought out PPI and turned them into a mockery too. If the man wants performance that would blow that Orion's out of the water, he should go DD or Audiopulse. Good call on the Elemental's, I haven't worked with them in a while so thats okay if i'm a touch out of date.
Anthony @ 2009-04-30 06:15:59
Anthony, if you do not know the answer to the question stop grabbing at nothing. Elemental Designs only makes 1 sub that will comes close to what this guy is wanting and that is the 13AV.2, and honestly it can not compete with the HCCA 15 at all. I have personally heard the 13AV.2, very good sub, but can not compete with the HCCA, or the FI BTL. The BTL will consume major amounts of power, will sound good doing so, but it will consume much more than you would really care for it to consume. I own a HCCA 12.2 running off of a Power Acoustik BAMF 5500/1 (3200 watts rms) and it sounds amazing. Sitting in my driveway with the bass up and volume up things hanging on the walls throughout the house were rattling, my wife told me to turn it down before things start falling.
georgewillings @ 2009-04-30 07:30:50
First of all you need to do a lot of testing and designing if you want to win competitions. Before you even decide whether to go with a BL or a BTL you need choose a good amp. Sundown Audio, Incriminator Audio, Zapco, Rockford Fosgate. Those are four brands that would push a SPL vehicle nicely. But with my honest opinion, I don't recommend Fi. I have owned a few of their subs, including the BTL. The company doesn't provide T/s Params so you cant really do top notch competitions with it. If you want attention, go with two Incriminator Audio 21" Death Penaltys and a Sundown 3500d. Good Luck.
Matt @ 2009-04-30 07:52:21
dude the orion is the best out of three, just go to youtube and watch videos and they will show you
chadwik @ 2009-04-30 08:34:41
Anthony, what org do you compete in? What class are you a champion in? I am interested in this.
As for topic, if you want to be heard and get loud I would look more for a SQL sub. Something that can "hit" with authority low and nasty. Higher frequency's do not knock pictures off walls, 30hz does :)
I can help you out, email me direct..
lowhz01@yahoo.com
wooferman @ 2009-04-30 10:59:26
[Subject]
what do i need to push 150 db in my car???i want to do competition?
[Question]
im just wondering what type of setup i would need to at least push 150 db in my car,if i aint pushin at least 150 i aint goin to any competition???
[All Answers]
You haven't supplied us with, the type of car, how many cubic feet you have, or how much you're willing to spend. Please for the sake of God talk with a little intelligence next time, it make you look stupid and us not know what you're talking about. This being said please drop the Ebonics.
First of all if you want to push that many decibels you MUST make sure your car can take that kind of abuse.It would destroy your car. Also at 120 db physical pain starts, your body simply cant handle it. You can go blind and deaf from it. If you are looking for that much sound you would be investing thousands of dollars. You need to replace all of your glass. Sound is all about pressure, once u lose pressure, you lose your sound. You would have to have this done at a professional shop. also costing you thousands. To get everything you need done, it will cost tens of thousands of dollars
How loud will your pocket allow you to go?
What car do you have? Want a 150 on music?
I can help you, email me.
lowhz01@yahoo.com
We have a few cars that are over a 150 on music.
Kicker 18" SoloX: 10,000 watts
Kicker Workhorse Amp: 10,000 watts: made for this sub
what do i need to push 150 db in my car???i want to do competition?
[Question]
im just wondering what type of setup i would need to at least push 150 db in my car,if i aint pushin at least 150 i aint goin to any competition???
chadwik @ 2009-04-30 08:49:05
[All Answers]
You haven't supplied us with, the type of car, how many cubic feet you have, or how much you're willing to spend. Please for the sake of God talk with a little intelligence next time, it make you look stupid and us not know what you're talking about. This being said please drop the Ebonics.
Bodyrot @ 2009-04-30 08:57:29
First of all if you want to push that many decibels you MUST make sure your car can take that kind of abuse.It would destroy your car. Also at 120 db physical pain starts, your body simply cant handle it. You can go blind and deaf from it. If you are looking for that much sound you would be investing thousands of dollars. You need to replace all of your glass. Sound is all about pressure, once u lose pressure, you lose your sound. You would have to have this done at a professional shop. also costing you thousands. To get everything you need done, it will cost tens of thousands of dollars
tony @ 2009-04-30 09:08:42
How loud will your pocket allow you to go?
What car do you have? Want a 150 on music?
I can help you, email me.
lowhz01@yahoo.com
We have a few cars that are over a 150 on music.
wooferman @ 2009-04-30 09:59:47
Kicker 18" SoloX: 10,000 watts
Kicker Workhorse Amp: 10,000 watts: made for this sub
johnelwayfan_7 @ 2009-04-30 11:44:40
[Subject]
is there any way i could repair my wire that connects to my cone of my twelve inch speaker?
[Question]
[All Answers]
Yeah , put it back together
If it's not damaged beyond repair you could solder it back together. Depends on how bad the damage is.
clear all doubts visit this website http://automobilesltd.blogspot.com
Buy a re-cone kit, Or like they've mentioned solder the wire back together.
is there any way i could repair my wire that connects to my cone of my twelve inch speaker?
[Question]
maine161991getmoney @ 2009-04-30 07:47:37
[All Answers]
Yeah , put it back together
Harley guy @ 2009-04-30 07:53:14
If it's not damaged beyond repair you could solder it back together. Depends on how bad the damage is.
Eby @ 2009-04-30 07:53:34
clear all doubts visit this website http://automobilesltd.blogspot.com
asndh @ 2009-04-30 08:00:02
Buy a re-cone kit, Or like they've mentioned solder the wire back together.
Bodyrot @ 2009-04-30 08:35:44