[Subject]
what amp to these subs?
[Question]
i have 2 Kenwood - 12" 4-Ohm Single-Voice-Coil Subwoofers they Handles up to 1200W peak power and 400 watts continious. what kind of amp should i put with these subs to get the best sound from them. thanks
[All Answers]
any 1200W+ amp, i would recomend a 2000W but make sure you have the fuses hooked up so you dont blow the subs.
Any amp that runs about 500-600 W RMS. I recommend anything by Alpine.
I don't know the quality of this amp, but it is a perfect match if you wire the woofers parallel. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10140_MB+Quart+PAB+1200.1D.html This is the amp, there is ample amount of specs for it, so I can only assume it's not incredibly crappy. If not this amp look for a amp that is 800 watts RMS x1 @ 2 ohms, this will save you the most money, by wiring it to 2 ohms rather than 8. Also Matt, Chetta, and Shanks have no idea what they're talking about apparently... They're not even using a mathematical equation to answer your question, but just guesstimates... I urge you to not trust their answers, as you will ruin your woofers. They didn't even tell you what impedance to look for either.
Idk but my dad own's his own audio company www.ljaudioequipment.com, I am sure he can help you!!!!
7500 gigawatts from flex capacitor, should have you thumping.
this am will be perfect it will over power them but they can handle it
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11795_Kenwood+KAC-9104D.html
Alpine PDX series, by far the best amps out there
look for an amp that runs around 800W RMS. you want to match your amp & subs off the RMS wattage. 1200W peak is what they can sustain in a single burst. a kicker zx750.1 with the subs wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load would work good.
what amp to these subs?
[Question]
i have 2 Kenwood - 12" 4-Ohm Single-Voice-Coil Subwoofers they Handles up to 1200W peak power and 400 watts continious. what kind of amp should i put with these subs to get the best sound from them. thanks
Jamal @ 2009-08-06 09:02:24
[All Answers]
any 1200W+ amp, i would recomend a 2000W but make sure you have the fuses hooked up so you dont blow the subs.
Matt @ 2009-08-06 09:06:43
Any amp that runs about 500-600 W RMS. I recommend anything by Alpine.
Shanks @ 2009-08-06 09:06:56
I don't know the quality of this amp, but it is a perfect match if you wire the woofers parallel. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10140_MB+Quart+PAB+1200.1D.html This is the amp, there is ample amount of specs for it, so I can only assume it's not incredibly crappy. If not this amp look for a amp that is 800 watts RMS x1 @ 2 ohms, this will save you the most money, by wiring it to 2 ohms rather than 8. Also Matt, Chetta, and Shanks have no idea what they're talking about apparently... They're not even using a mathematical equation to answer your question, but just guesstimates... I urge you to not trust their answers, as you will ruin your woofers. They didn't even tell you what impedance to look for either.
Bodyrot @ 2009-08-06 09:08:17
Idk but my dad own's his own audio company www.ljaudioequipment.com, I am sure he can help you!!!!
JAY @ 2009-08-06 09:08:25
7500 gigawatts from flex capacitor, should have you thumping.
Chettah @ 2009-08-06 09:09:25
this am will be perfect it will over power them but they can handle it
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11795_Kenwood+KAC-9104D.html
chevy#1 @ 2009-08-06 09:19:42
Alpine PDX series, by far the best amps out there
whatnot @ 2009-08-06 09:45:08
look for an amp that runs around 800W RMS. you want to match your amp & subs off the RMS wattage. 1200W peak is what they can sustain in a single burst. a kicker zx750.1 with the subs wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load would work good.
Matt @ 2009-08-06 10:26:42
[Subject]
What are good brandS for getting 2 10" subwoofers?
[Question]
[All Answers]
if you have the money
go with diamond audios
or something more mid range
kickers arent bad
some good ones are alpine s10's
It's all subjective. Really what you need to focus on is mounting and powering. If you have a good amp, especially with a control knob (cuz you don't want to give your mom a ride to work while bumping some Neil Diamond) your sound will improve. If you've got a good box, made with wood or a bypass system or anything professionally built your sound will improve.
That said, RFs, Alpine, Diamond, Infinity, Sony......(maybe) are all decent choices, if you've got some coin. Go to your neighborhood audio store, bust buy, ultimate electronics and chat up someone who genuinely enjoys this stuff. They'll tell you how to make a good system... then you can figure out how to do it on your budget!
Depends on your taste in SQ, although I would say JL, Volfenhag, and RockFord. Are my favorites. www.sonicelectronix.com Check out their selection. Also if you find any Digital Design driver, snag them up in a heart beat, by far the BEST woofer I have ever heard.
If money isn't an issue, get yourself 2 10" Alpine Type X subs, you will be shocked, get them to set one up in store and hear it, its intensely loud
all of these guys make good points, especially with the Rockford Fosgates, however they fail to notice one of the best... MEMPHIS. Memphis makes the 2nd best 10 i have ever heard. I owned 2 M-class 10's.. i've even owned Power refrence memphis 10's... trust me, the PR's are ABSOLUTELY UN-BLOWABLE! i mean I DOGGED THESE THING OUT and it's like their STILL brand new! now, if you want the ABSOLUTE BEST, go with DD 10's. (Digital Design) . they are everything you're looking for and much, much more.
What are good brandS for getting 2 10" subwoofers?
[Question]
Maxwell @ 2009-08-06 07:44:21
[All Answers]
if you have the money
go with diamond audios
or something more mid range
kickers arent bad
kyle @ 2009-08-06 07:51:54
some good ones are alpine s10's
marvin z @ 2009-08-06 07:54:11
It's all subjective. Really what you need to focus on is mounting and powering. If you have a good amp, especially with a control knob (cuz you don't want to give your mom a ride to work while bumping some Neil Diamond) your sound will improve. If you've got a good box, made with wood or a bypass system or anything professionally built your sound will improve.
That said, RFs, Alpine, Diamond, Infinity, Sony......(maybe) are all decent choices, if you've got some coin. Go to your neighborhood audio store, bust buy, ultimate electronics and chat up someone who genuinely enjoys this stuff. They'll tell you how to make a good system... then you can figure out how to do it on your budget!
NotYouJustMe @ 2009-08-06 08:16:21
Depends on your taste in SQ, although I would say JL, Volfenhag, and RockFord. Are my favorites. www.sonicelectronix.com Check out their selection. Also if you find any Digital Design driver, snag them up in a heart beat, by far the BEST woofer I have ever heard.
Bodyrot @ 2009-08-06 08:26:17
If money isn't an issue, get yourself 2 10" Alpine Type X subs, you will be shocked, get them to set one up in store and hear it, its intensely loud
whatnot @ 2009-08-06 09:48:32
all of these guys make good points, especially with the Rockford Fosgates, however they fail to notice one of the best... MEMPHIS. Memphis makes the 2nd best 10 i have ever heard. I owned 2 M-class 10's.. i've even owned Power refrence memphis 10's... trust me, the PR's are ABSOLUTELY UN-BLOWABLE! i mean I DOGGED THESE THING OUT and it's like their STILL brand new! now, if you want the ABSOLUTE BEST, go with DD 10's. (Digital Design) . they are everything you're looking for and much, much more.
Jordan @ 2009-08-06 10:28:17
[Subject]
would i need an extra battery?
[Question]
i have a.....
toyota tacoma 1999 with stock battery
digital designs 3515 sub
4 alpine type r speakers
sundown audio 2000 W RMS amp powering the sub
US amp 600 W RMS powering the 4 speakers
I was thinking about getting the 800 kinetik extra battery. would that be enough?
im not sure how to calculate that kind of information
[All Answers]
yep that work.
what kind of amp is this never herd of it.
dude I look up that amp.
Nice. dam nice
I wish i has been able to check them out.
I just bought two dls amps.
hopping my ridge hits hard.
What's your goal?
If you're planning to use the system extensively without the engine running, or enter an SPL contest, then you might need an additional battery.
If this is just a system that's meant to be used while you're driving around, then you may need to upgrade your alternator and charging system, but you certainly don't need to add a battery.
adding an extra battery only adds strain on your alternator, which actaully powers your system, because it now has the task of charging 2 batteries instead of only 1.
Two things to do. #1 the most important thing to do, its called "The Big Three" This allows your car to better charge your battery and actually can benefit idle as well. The three are, upgrad to bigger wire from Battery positive to alternator. Stock wire is usually like 6 gauge or even 8 in some cases, upgrade to at least a 4gauge. Next, upgrade the ground from batter negative to chassis also using 4 gauge or bigger. Then find your grounds that go from your engine block to your chassis and to firewall. sometimes they stick out and are easy to find. if you can not find them, no biggie, just find a bolt on your block e.i. the mounting bolt for alternator and run a 4 gauge or bigger to your chassis. Again, this will help your alternator to run better. Now instead of adding an extra battery, get a bigger battery like 1200 kinetic and replace your stock battery and that should suffice :) Its not a great idea to have more 2 different brands of batteries together.
If you do the above 2 things, you should be just fine. As for alternator problems, unless you plan on slumpin youre beats for 10 hours straight, your battery should hold up fine, its not frequent that you're in your car at full blast for a very long time.
this a very simple explanation, but it will give you a ballpark figure. find out the max current draw of you electrical system. let's say your truck draws 70A and you audio system draws 200A at full draw (look at the fuses on your amps and add them up). example: if one of your amps has 3x40A fuses the max current draw will probably be around 110A since 120A will blow the fuses. So now we figure your total max current draw is around 270A. I think your stock alt is 70A, so your 200A short of meeting current demand @ maximum draw. To figure out the battery requirement if you don't upgrade your alt, you can use Peukert's values (google Peukert Calculator). Find out the battery's amp hours and minutes of reserve. If you find the calculter online, you will eventually calculate how many minutes your batteries can sustain the current draw @ full load before they die. Long story short, get the highest output alternator you can find and get a deep cycle battery if you plan on playing your stereo at high volume for long periods of time. also, adding batteries does not put a strain on your alternator.
would i need an extra battery?
[Question]
i have a.....
toyota tacoma 1999 with stock battery
digital designs 3515 sub
4 alpine type r speakers
sundown audio 2000 W RMS amp powering the sub
US amp 600 W RMS powering the 4 speakers
I was thinking about getting the 800 kinetik extra battery. would that be enough?
im not sure how to calculate that kind of information
rofl @ 2009-08-06 07:36:43
[All Answers]
yep that work.
what kind of amp is this never herd of it.
dude I look up that amp.
Nice. dam nice
I wish i has been able to check them out.
I just bought two dls amps.
hopping my ridge hits hard.
identity @ 2009-08-06 07:41:43
What's your goal?
If you're planning to use the system extensively without the engine running, or enter an SPL contest, then you might need an additional battery.
If this is just a system that's meant to be used while you're driving around, then you may need to upgrade your alternator and charging system, but you certainly don't need to add a battery.
KaeZoo @ 2009-08-06 07:58:05
adding an extra battery only adds strain on your alternator, which actaully powers your system, because it now has the task of charging 2 batteries instead of only 1.
RF_lover @ 2009-08-06 08:08:53
Two things to do. #1 the most important thing to do, its called "The Big Three" This allows your car to better charge your battery and actually can benefit idle as well. The three are, upgrad to bigger wire from Battery positive to alternator. Stock wire is usually like 6 gauge or even 8 in some cases, upgrade to at least a 4gauge. Next, upgrade the ground from batter negative to chassis also using 4 gauge or bigger. Then find your grounds that go from your engine block to your chassis and to firewall. sometimes they stick out and are easy to find. if you can not find them, no biggie, just find a bolt on your block e.i. the mounting bolt for alternator and run a 4 gauge or bigger to your chassis. Again, this will help your alternator to run better. Now instead of adding an extra battery, get a bigger battery like 1200 kinetic and replace your stock battery and that should suffice :) Its not a great idea to have more 2 different brands of batteries together.
If you do the above 2 things, you should be just fine. As for alternator problems, unless you plan on slumpin youre beats for 10 hours straight, your battery should hold up fine, its not frequent that you're in your car at full blast for a very long time.
Mr Jokster @ 2009-08-06 10:05:50
this a very simple explanation, but it will give you a ballpark figure. find out the max current draw of you electrical system. let's say your truck draws 70A and you audio system draws 200A at full draw (look at the fuses on your amps and add them up). example: if one of your amps has 3x40A fuses the max current draw will probably be around 110A since 120A will blow the fuses. So now we figure your total max current draw is around 270A. I think your stock alt is 70A, so your 200A short of meeting current demand @ maximum draw. To figure out the battery requirement if you don't upgrade your alt, you can use Peukert's values (google Peukert Calculator). Find out the battery's amp hours and minutes of reserve. If you find the calculter online, you will eventually calculate how many minutes your batteries can sustain the current draw @ full load before they die. Long story short, get the highest output alternator you can find and get a deep cycle battery if you plan on playing your stereo at high volume for long periods of time. also, adding batteries does not put a strain on your alternator.
lyricsborn808 @ 2009-08-06 10:15:19
[Subject]
Hey guys, is a "baja" 1000 watt amp any good?? please help.?
[Question]
[All Answers]
I have never even heard of them, and my research turned up nothing what so ever on them, so I'm assuming it's one of those crappy amps like BOSS, the fact that they supplied insufficient specs for their product symbolizes to me, that they're a cheap "Wal-Mart" type brand, and not worth the metal they're made out of.
Haha, dude, you don't want that. Save yourself some money and get an RF or Sony or ANYTHING with a name on it. At that rate, you almost definitely don't need all 1000 watts of that. You can build a 2 12" system powered by a 450w amp (that's dees) and it'll blow your trunk lid off. Trust me, I shoved two crap speakers in a plywood box with a 300w amp and my 93 camry was BANGIN.
eBay is a great place to find good last season merch for cheap, high priced amps go for about 50% off, but buy stateside or you'll get ripped off.
The Baja HA1000 is branded and marketed by a company out of California called "Profile Consumer Electronics". Here's the web site:
http://www.profileusa.com/index.cfm
Their products are low-priced and relatively low-end. Their amps are sold by Crutchfield:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-EiQw0yezRfz/p_489HA1000/Profile-HA1000.html
As you can see from the 2nd link, the HA1000 is a 2-channel amp that outputs 240 watts RMS X 2 into 2ohms or 480 watts X 1 bridged into 4ohms. It is only stable to 4ohms in bridged mode. It would probably be suitable for powering a set of component speakers or perhaps a single subwoofer.
I have one at the moment and let me tell you... its trash... i mean yeah it will work but you would honestly be better off goin to walmart and buying the 1000 watt sony explode amp they got.
Hey guys, is a "baja" 1000 watt amp any good?? please help.?
[Question]
Maxwell @ 2009-08-06 07:43:30
[All Answers]
I have never even heard of them, and my research turned up nothing what so ever on them, so I'm assuming it's one of those crappy amps like BOSS, the fact that they supplied insufficient specs for their product symbolizes to me, that they're a cheap "Wal-Mart" type brand, and not worth the metal they're made out of.
Bodyrot @ 2009-08-06 07:48:57
Haha, dude, you don't want that. Save yourself some money and get an RF or Sony or ANYTHING with a name on it. At that rate, you almost definitely don't need all 1000 watts of that. You can build a 2 12" system powered by a 450w amp (that's dees) and it'll blow your trunk lid off. Trust me, I shoved two crap speakers in a plywood box with a 300w amp and my 93 camry was BANGIN.
eBay is a great place to find good last season merch for cheap, high priced amps go for about 50% off, but buy stateside or you'll get ripped off.
NotYouJustMe @ 2009-08-06 08:09:55
The Baja HA1000 is branded and marketed by a company out of California called "Profile Consumer Electronics". Here's the web site:
http://www.profileusa.com/index.cfm
Their products are low-priced and relatively low-end. Their amps are sold by Crutchfield:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-EiQw0yezRfz/p_489HA1000/Profile-HA1000.html
As you can see from the 2nd link, the HA1000 is a 2-channel amp that outputs 240 watts RMS X 2 into 2ohms or 480 watts X 1 bridged into 4ohms. It is only stable to 4ohms in bridged mode. It would probably be suitable for powering a set of component speakers or perhaps a single subwoofer.
PimpMyRide @ 2009-08-06 08:19:15
I have one at the moment and let me tell you... its trash... i mean yeah it will work but you would honestly be better off goin to walmart and buying the 1000 watt sony explode amp they got.
daone1312 @ 2009-08-06 10:19:52
[Subject]
subs, amps, speakers, deck, etc?
[Question]
What exactly are these things and what do they do? I need someone to explain them to me in simple terms. also, how much would it cost for a decent full system in my car? Also, are they all neccessary components or can some i have a sysy\tem without?
[All Answers]
subs:go.boom
amps:produces.boom
speakers:go.tweet
deck:produces.tweet
To start KB is a moron
A sub is a also called a driver, which changes the SPL, which cause the bass you hear, mostly low frequency's.
A amp is what produces the wattage for the woofer from the alternators current.
A speakers, is a mix between highs and lows usually, causing voice, instrumental, and bass.
A deck otherwise known as a head unit, is where you control the music, usually located in the middle of your dashboard.
A alternator is what produces the current, much like a turbine in a dam.
A enclosure in other words speaker box, is what the driver is housed in.
A capacitor is an unnecessary piece of equipment used in car audio, this unit only helps the transition of voltage coming from the alternator, not a cure for dimming lights or better SQ.
SQ also known as sound quality, is your quota of the noise being produced.
You would need an amp, drivers, all the proper cables, speaker wire, possibly a new alternator, if the amp draws a lot of current. This all depends on the woofer/amp combo you end up wanting, price wise. Feel free to I.M. me on Yahoo or email me, if you need help building a system. Hope this helped!
ontop of what the second guy said you will need a fuse block or circuit breaker, and a distribution block if your gonna run more then 1 amp. to build a good sound quality system you can spend anywhere from 1,000 dollars give or take a few bucks up to 20,000+ dollars look at the Focal Utopia door speakers those alone run about 5,000 dollars. Anything you get at wal mart, k mart, target, or other such stores are not good. you will be highly disappointed after just a couple months if that.
subs, amps, speakers, deck, etc?
[Question]
What exactly are these things and what do they do? I need someone to explain them to me in simple terms. also, how much would it cost for a decent full system in my car? Also, are they all neccessary components or can some i have a sysy\tem without?
Jen D @ 2009-08-06 08:14:21
[All Answers]
subs:go.boom
amps:produces.boom
speakers:go.tweet
deck:produces.tweet
KB @ 2009-08-06 08:18:23
To start KB is a moron
A sub is a also called a driver, which changes the SPL, which cause the bass you hear, mostly low frequency's.
A amp is what produces the wattage for the woofer from the alternators current.
A speakers, is a mix between highs and lows usually, causing voice, instrumental, and bass.
A deck otherwise known as a head unit, is where you control the music, usually located in the middle of your dashboard.
A alternator is what produces the current, much like a turbine in a dam.
A enclosure in other words speaker box, is what the driver is housed in.
A capacitor is an unnecessary piece of equipment used in car audio, this unit only helps the transition of voltage coming from the alternator, not a cure for dimming lights or better SQ.
SQ also known as sound quality, is your quota of the noise being produced.
You would need an amp, drivers, all the proper cables, speaker wire, possibly a new alternator, if the amp draws a lot of current. This all depends on the woofer/amp combo you end up wanting, price wise. Feel free to I.M. me on Yahoo or email me, if you need help building a system. Hope this helped!
Bodyrot @ 2009-08-06 08:52:06
ontop of what the second guy said you will need a fuse block or circuit breaker, and a distribution block if your gonna run more then 1 amp. to build a good sound quality system you can spend anywhere from 1,000 dollars give or take a few bucks up to 20,000+ dollars look at the Focal Utopia door speakers those alone run about 5,000 dollars. Anything you get at wal mart, k mart, target, or other such stores are not good. you will be highly disappointed after just a couple months if that.
steve s @ 2009-08-06 09:29:33
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