Random question.................?

[Subject]
Random question.................?
[Question]
I was just wondering, what is it called when you can get that suspension or whatever its called where you can bounce up and down on your rims when you're stationary in a car? I mean whats the suspension called?

Black guys are normally stereotyped to have them. cheers

Mac @ 2009-05-30 08:57:25

[All Answers]
hydrolics lol.

AWESOME_POSSOM @ 2009-05-30 09:00:55

Hydraulics?

roo695 @ 2009-05-30 09:01:09

hydrolics

chris t @ 2009-05-30 09:01:40

Hydraulics...? shocks...? Im thinking hydraulics though

audball @ 2009-05-30 09:01:41

Hydrolics, which are pretty awesome, by the way

Danny @ 2009-05-30 09:05:06

Air bags will do it as well at 1/2 the price.

Caveman @ 2009-05-30 09:05:29

[Subject]
Is it easy to blow out a speaker in your car?
[Question]
I just got a new truck, and my friend told me that i shouldn't play the music too loud because i could blow out a speaker or damage it, so i wondering if its possible to blow out a speaker.

Alex @ 2009-05-30 09:37:49

[All Answers]
yes..

KB @ 2009-05-30 09:42:15

YES it can damage a speaker, that is why you can buy after market speakers that are better than the ones that came in the auto.

Caveman @ 2009-05-30 09:43:42

If you have the stock radio it is very unlikely that you will blow them unless you have the bass turned up but if the radio is aftermarket it is very easy to blow stock speakers.

K @ 2009-05-30 09:46:36

yes, and im currently trying to learn how to buy the right type to replace mine. a month or so after i bought it the back ones were blown. yesterday, one of my front ones started going pretty bad. it is EXTREMELY easy to blow them if you like your music loud so be careful because its wicked annoying.

Amanda @ 2009-05-30 09:47:08

Yes it is usually you can't blow out your speakers if you have the stock radio and the stock speakers because the stock radio will not go louder than the speakers can handle however if you purchase an aftermarket Radio but don't buy aftermarket speakers then you may run the risk of blowing out your speaker because the new radio won't have the same restrictions as the stock unit. So if you are planning on upgrading you car audio make sure you speak to a specialist so they can get you the proper set up.

adriantorres187 @ 2009-05-30 09:48:07

[Subject]
battery or a capacitor?
[Question]
i have a system running 1500 watts rms and i cant really blast it because i do not want to mess up the battery or the alternator. I know about the big three and i only upgraded the three wires. I didnt do the HO alternator and the deep cycle battery cause of money issues. Now in order for me to get my system running at full power without the fear my car will mess up or without upgrading the big three should i purchase a yellow top battery or a capacitor? any help is needed



Thanks

slicknick4you @ 2009-05-30 07:00:26

[All Answers]
um

neither



you need a bigger alternator

KB @ 2009-05-30 07:39:39

you will get the most out of you system with both really but if u can only get one go with the yellow top.

Hotrod @ 2009-05-30 07:39:40

capacitor is a waste of money. you need a very good name brand battery and a new high output alternator. i know this cause i had a mtx7801- 1,500 watt RMS amplifier on 2 12'' digital designs 2512. when i done this my system beat hard and sounded better......................good luck

bones @ 2009-05-30 07:48:30

Upgrading the Big 3 is going to be the cheapest thing to do out of all of it and it is one thing that you must do to improve your systems efficacy.



A capacitor is not any good if you don't have the voltage to start with, so its always better to get a bigger alternator.



A battery is better to have then a capacitor because its going to put out more because a cap will only do short burst but still if you don't upgrade your alternator your battery is only going to last for a short time before it needs to charge up again and cause unneeded stress on your alternator.



That amp is going pull about 120 amps, so unless you plain on going bigger you don't have to get the biggest alternator, so an alternator that puts out least 150 amps.



You really should upgrade all 3 but start with the alternator and the big 3, should only cost about 200$ to 250$ to do, then get a good yellow top battery that is going to cost another 200$

scott p @ 2009-05-30 09:15:10

[Subject]
can i find out the - and + wire with a volt meeter?
[Question]
so i just bought a 95 bmw and i wanted to put my 12s in it the problem im having is i cant tell witch is the - and + wire the wires are blue with like pink and yellow strips now the clips on the end of the wire one is bigger then the other so i looked on the speakers and they dont show the - and + signs either so i wanted to use the volt meeter to tell but i dont think im doing it right does any body know a good way to find out or the right setting for the meeter
i does matter which wire you hook up when your pushing the sound through a 1500 watt amp

sknnie @ 2009-05-30 06:04:17

[All Answers]
consider the GROUND negative.



Take a volt-meter reading.



The One that says +13.5 volts - is POSITIVE. Mark it.



The one that reads "0" is Negative.



The voltmeter lead that is BLACK is NEGATIVE.

stanleys_2001 @ 2009-05-30 06:08:36

most often a meter will show a - sign on the display if polarity is backwards.

triplechip @ 2009-05-30 06:10:23

Speakers are driven by an alternating current (in the 10 Hz to 20kHz range), so actually it doesn't matter which way round you connect the speaker wires.

Leighther @ 2009-05-30 06:11:50

A 12 volt test light should tell you what wire is + and - .Turn your ignition on so that current is flowing through the cars wires. The test light has a sharp needle like end on it. Just punture the wire with this sharp end , if the test light lights up , thats a + wire. It has 12v current running through it. If it doesn't light up its a probably a ground wire.

dfb123 @ 2009-05-30 06:20:35

[Subject]
Should i use 2 15" subwoofers or 6 10" subs? Should i go with square or circle woofers?
[Question]
OK for my setup i have an ALPINE CDA-9853 head unit, I will be running 4EA Cerwin Vega 6X8 in the doors off the alpine and I have lucked out in getting 2 EA PHOENIX GOLD TA MS-1000

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Phoenix_Gold_MS1000/

total rated power approx 4000 bridged

and approx $1,000 to spend on subs



the way the amps are set up i can have 4 outputs from the amps (one each end bridged) or 8 outputs

i was thinking of getting 2EA 15" KICKER SOLO-X. SINCE they have a massive handling and each have 2 sets of inputs. I have also considered getting 6 ea 10" SOLOBARIC.



I listen to mostly rock and metal and to a little bit of R&B. I have always heard 12" and 15" for rap hip hop and 8" and 10" for rock. I was wondering if this is really true. should I go for more 8 or 10 inch woofers or would 2 15" be good since I listen to metal I like to hear/feel each individual drum beat.

I have an area in my trunk that's 38"X22"



Second part of my question. am i better off going for square or circle woofers? I have heard square woofers have a larger surface area and are louder. but I also have heard that the sound is not as clear. If that is truly the case will have to rethink my sub choices

Eric W @ 2009-05-30 05:42:00

[All Answers]
For just rock music this sound system seems a little epic... For deep loud bass go with the 15's... But if you want very full bass I'd recommend building your own ported box that way you can tune it for a more wide range of bass apposed to a generic box that only hits the lows... I'm assuming you already have a base knowldge on sound since your going with that many/big amount of speakers. So depending on which speaker it is I'd look at the recommended amount of sq footage it needs also its range. And then for the box size/shape... Build it depending on your car(what fits and what your cars acoustics are like)

Danny @ 2009-05-30 06:18:20

If you want to feel it, moving as much air as possible is king. Box design itself has much more to do with the end result than the choice of woofer. A poorly designed box can make just about anything sound terrible, and conversely, a well designed box can manipulate even "cheap" woofers into doing what you want. I would recommend using a sealed box for the 15's with the power you have and you definitely will "feel" all you need. I have a similar taste in music as you, and I've probably had every configuration but settled on a pair of 15's in a properly designed box in the end that was powered by a single Phoenix Gold MS275. The bass drum in Metallica's One would move my hair! and at the same time it was completely tight, could distinguish easily even the fastest double kick drum beats. I had 4 10"s and it just wasn't the same. 4 12"s in a ported box wouldn't do it either. They were loud, but just not the right sound I was looking for. So anyway, the sealed enclosure, if built properly for the woofer's parameters, will not be mushy and boomy, but very tight and controlled. It still will be able to get low when necessary, but yeah, for booming rap it will probably not satisfy. The specs for the box usually can be provided by the manufacturer. The sealed design will generally have a smaller footprint as well. As far as the square/round thing.... minimal difference. You literally have to double your power or double your cone area to get just a 3db gain in volume, so yes, there is more cone area and it technically is louder, but the difference would not be noticeable. There certainly isn't a quality issue with either choice. There is a lot of great resource at www.bcae1.com for gaining car audio know how before you shop. Not to criticize, but if you're spending that much on amplification and subwoofers, why not splurge a bit more on the front stage? IMHO, I would use one of the amps for your subs and use the other to power some nicer components in the front that are properly crossed over. Remember, you'll only lose 3db in subwoofer volume! But, if you re-allocate this power to the front, your perception of overall loudness and sound quality will be over the top! The reason is, without adequate power, in order to keep up with the subs, you'll most certainly run the little amp in the Alpine into clipping, and it will sound crappy to you. Also, I'm not sure of the ratings you're quoting on the MS1000's, but the specs are:

4 x 340W RMS @ 4 ohms (14.4V)

4 x 520W RMS @ 2 ohms (14.4V)

2 x 1050W RMS @ 4 ohms bridged (14.4V)

And that is ONLY if you have 14.4V going to them constantly, which will not be the case unless you go through a lot of expensive modifications and upgrades to your vehicle's electrical system to achieve this. You can mitigate some of that by ensuring the amps have large gauge wire like I/0 running to them. 4 AWG will suffice, but the more the voltage drops, the less power you'll have. But be aware that these beasts draw a lot of power, and quite frankly, your car's electrical system will dictate how well they perform.

madstereoman @ 2009-05-30 06:49:32

with that little trunk. and space 2 very good 12's digital designs 2512 would do very good and port the box the way you like it they are very loud and sound very good. the right box is what you need for the subs to do what you want. the right box space makes bass. check out the digital designs call the up #405-239-2800...i got my subs for $250 each shipped to the house................good luck

bones @ 2009-05-30 08:22:22

I would not recommend getting square subwoofers. I had a 15 L7 and the lows were great but it will not hit any bass notes over 100hz. You would be much better off the get a pair of alpine type r 15s they are 2000 watts a piece and can hit very good lows as well as much higher bass notes than an L7. You can find them for around 220 a piece on sonicelecronix.com.

K @ 2009-05-30 09:33:18