1991 Ford F150 XLT Lariat - Sound System?

[Subject]
1991 Ford F150 XLT Lariat - Sound System?
[Question]
Ok i just got this 1991 Ford F150 XLT Lariat for my first car. it came with two 8-12" MTX subs that werent even wired in and all stock stereo and speakers. My brother is going to help me put in two JL W3 12" Subs and two amps and a head unit, he also has all the wires. what do you suggest i do as far as replacing the old stock speakers or anything else? any tips about this truck or anything are also appreciated. i would also like to know if anybody knows the sizes of the stock speakers im not really sure on them. should it be exactly what they measure across if i use a ruler?

Chris @ 2009-01-27 22:17:49

[All Answers]
Ya, replacing those old guys will help a lot. Should measure across. Really though, any speakers will sound better than those from 1990. You could prob go get a crappy pare from best buy and it will sound way better.

mcperson2k @ 2009-01-27 22:22:17

[Subject]
Throbbin Da BASS in cold weather...?
[Question]
I live in snowy weather during the winter. I don't usually turn my bass up, but I notice that the bass sounds more less in cold freezing tempuratures such as "5-30 degrees F"... It seems to sound it's loudest in nice sunny weather when its a minimum of 60 degrees F...

I have a 15" Kicker L7.. Is it true that I won't get as much bass in the cold weather as in the nice and hot warm weather?

MJ_3000 @ 2009-01-27 21:49:25

[All Answers]
If you wanna get technical, the bass should be louder the colder it is, because if the sub is colder, there will be less heat, therefore less resistance, more power...so thats weird... maybe youre imagining it...ha

mysticmaster33 @ 2009-01-27 21:54:07

The cold temperature causes everything to contract, voice coils, spider material, surrounds, etc. It also causes the materials to become stiffer and more difficult to move or more resistant to movement. So yes it is possible that the cold temps will cause the subs to produce less air movement.

tcbassist @ 2009-01-27 22:02:10

It's actual because the air particles. I learned this like in physics and chemistry. With colder air the particles are closer together which means it has to work harder to travel further. When it's hot, the particles are lose therefore sound will travel further.

sl0wm03 @ 2009-01-27 22:33:47

[Subject]
i need to know what i should buy for car amp and sub?
[Question]
i have a 1993 cadillac el dorado, i just put in 2 infinity 5 1/4" speakers in the front and i believe they are 6" x 9" but they are philips. and now i need to know what amp i should buy to best work for my speakers and along with that a sub.
i want it as loud as i can get it for about 5 or 6 hundred more dollars. i like alot of BOOOOOOOOOOM

loganp20 @ 2009-01-27 21:46:47

[All Answers]
I wouldnt recommend buying a amp that powers subs and amps all in one, for several reasons.



For one, a amp that does that will not be very powerful. Even the higher end amps that are 5channel usually push a max of maybe 75watts to each speaker and 500 to the sub...youll need more if you really want to get loud.



Second reason is that the sound quality will be crappier that way. Youll get a much cleaner sound if you just buy a seperate amp for the speakers and subs.



If you want your speakers to sound great, I recommend american bass amps. They sound amazing! Check em out at americanbassusa.com You can find them cheap on ebay. They also make great amps for subs too and push out tremendous power, if you can back it up with enough power going to them to run them.



Other good amps for subs are Kicker, JBL, higher end alpine and rockford, and if you want a lot of bang for your buck, Hifonics makes great amps...



Good Luck!

mysticmaster33 @ 2009-01-27 22:00:10

[Subject]
JL audio speakers??!!?
[Question]
which JL Audio subs are the best. I'm lookin for some 12's. price isn't an issue

RAMMERJAMMER @ 2009-01-27 21:35:51

[All Answers]
If you really want JL, the best are the w7...they make 13's also. But you can get better for cheaper...just depends on what youre wanting your music to sound like, and are you more into SPL or SQ?

mysticmaster33 @ 2009-01-27 21:44:59

Depends how you define "best". If price isn't the issue then just go to the JL audio website find either the most expensive 12" on there or the one that can handle the most power (it will probably be the same one) and buy it. Matter of fact, buy 2 just for fun.



Best is simply a matter of opinion.



Good luck,



Ben

Ben S @ 2009-01-27 21:54:11

[Subject]
Adjusting Bass and Treble on Alpine Deck?
[Question]
I need help adjusting the bass center frequency, bass bandwidth, and treble center frequency. I have the Alpine 9884 Deck, Kicker CVR 12 and a Quantum Audio Amp. I want the bass to sound clear and hit hard at the same time. The bass center frequencies are 80hz-100-200-60-80. The bass bandwidths are 1-2-3-4. The treble center frequencies are 10khz-12.5-15-17.5-10. Thank you.

jer_510 @ 2009-01-27 21:18:37

[All Answers]
visit this website http://automobilesltd.blogspot.com

Jsdud I @ 2009-01-27 21:28:08

looks like you have your bass set at 80hz and your treble set at 10khz. try your bass at 80hz and change the width to 2 or 3. also try the bass at 100hz with the width set at 2 or 3. & see which one works best.

You'll have to make sure your crossovers for your subs on your amp and/or deck are set higher than 80hz or 100hz in order to hear anything.

on a side note, you might get better sounding treble at 12.5khz with a little bit wider width if it has that option.

Bill D @ 2009-01-27 21:31:34

[Subject]
why doesn't my headunit produce sound?
[Question]
I own a pioneer DEH-P6000UB Headunit. Today as i was driving. the speakers all of a sudden made a tiny pop noise and the music was gone.. on all four speakers.. I checked the wiring and everything was connected.. the headunit turns on and functions but no sound is coming out.. all it does is make a tiny pop noise everytime when it is turned on. All 4 of my speakers are new.. barely 2 weeks old.. i don't blast them either.



I don't know whats wrong i have the receipt though from bestbuy but if i could solve it wihtout returning it.. that would be so much better

Jerry F @ 2009-01-27 21:06:57

[All Answers]
I would return it without solving it. If they are broken and only two weeks old, then the only reasonable thing to do is return it. Don't waste your time trying to fix what you paid good money for, just return them.

Jeric T @ 2009-01-27 21:17:58

sounds like the fuse blown in the reciever, not too hard to fix

scotty b @ 2009-01-27 21:23:10

In addition to the above advise I would also advise you to check you speaker wiring with an ohm meter to be sure that none of them are shorted to ground. From what you described I'd say that something has caused the output IC in the head unit to short out. That's usually caused by a bad voice coil or a shorted wire as long as the wiring is properly connected.

It's not the fuse Scotty or the unit would not power up and make the popping noise.

tcbassist @ 2009-01-27 21:24:56

[Subject]
witch capacitor is right for my system?
[Question]
I have a 1000 watt amp with 2 12inch subs and don't understand the whole fraud thing, the amp only runs the subs please help

cam69ssrs @ 2009-01-27 21:00:35

[All Answers]
The thing is, people get confused in the real purpose of a cap. It is not used to cure or prevent dimming lights nor will it change the way the system sounds (both are misconceptions).



To undertsand the purpose you need to understand how they work.



A cap does it's best to keep the voltage at a certain level, but if the voltage changes so will the cap voltage. The cap just makes the change smoother. The diming light syndrome isn't a voltage issue but rather a current (amperage) drop. The voltage simply follows what the current does. A cap does not help this situation at all. A cap doesn't provide more power nor does it try to correct it.



A cap is perfect for a noisy voltage line or if the car has fast, erratic voltage spikes/drops. This is why caps are used in AC to DC power supplies as they are used to smooth out the DC ripple for a more smooth DC output.



The ONLY cure for dimming lights is a more hefty amperage source, the alternator.



The REAL powerplant of the car is the alternator. The ONLY purpose of the battery is to start the car and run the accessories with the engine off, nothing else.

sparky3489 @ 2009-01-27 21:08:22

Caps are over rated and don't really help much unless you have a weak voltage regulator in your car that allows the alternators voltage fluctuate. Caps are used to "stiffen" the voltage. That is to say that they help maintain the voltage at a constant level. In doing this they will help, "somewhat", in preventing the voltage from dropping when the bass hits but what you really need to do in that situation is upgrade the 'Big 3'. 1)Alternator, 2)battery wire from alternator to battery, 3)ground wire from battery to chassis/engine/transmission. If you insist on using a cap anyway then the recommended rating is 1 farad for every 1000 watts of power used.

tcbassist @ 2009-01-27 21:11:41

Usually, ppl will use 1 Farad per 1000watts.

Add some detail to your question though, about why you're looking to add a cap. You and your car might be better off by just doing the Big 3 wiring upgrade.

Bill D @ 2009-01-27 21:23:01

[Subject]
amplifier help? Can you have too much power?
[Question]
I was thinking about getting this amp, <http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18924> for two of these 4 ohm speakers <http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/subwoofers/m3-cast-subwoofers/> (the M315D4). I was planning on wiring the two speakers in parallel so that the final impedance would be 2 ohms on the amp. I would need at least 1000 RMS to run these speakers at full power, but this amp has 1350 RMS. Is that too much? And does anyone know what the mounting details are for those subs? Like the Enclosure volume and the port tuning frequency? Thanks.
I would actually probably buy from this website: <http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11931_Boss+DD2600.html>

coolioolio... @ 2009-01-27 21:00:33

[All Answers]
The power from the amp will be divided between the two subs so each sub will be getting 1350/2 RMS watts or 675 RMS watts each. So yes that would be too much since these subs are rated to 500 RMS watts each. You may be able to get by if you keep the amp turned way down but nobody seems to know how to do that because they always want it as loud as they can go. You'd be well advised to find an amp rated for 1000 watts RMS@ 2 ohms. Get a well built sub box from a knowledgable car audio shop. They will have the knowledge of the box parimeters needed.

tcbassist @ 2009-01-27 21:21:32

To add on to what the other person said, if you want a clean sounding system with minimal distortion, it can be smart to get a amp that pushes more power than you need. For instance, if you get a amp that pushes 2000rms and a sub that handles only 1200rms, you can use that to your advantage. Turn the gain on the amp all the way down. It wont blow your sub, and your amp will work a lot less, and produce much cleaner power. Remember, the lower the gain, the better the sound quality.

mysticmaster33 @ 2009-01-27 21:49:21

[Subject]
can anyone build a custom sub box?
[Question]
i need a box that holds 2 15 inch subs. i want it ported. i want it to fit the midgate of an avalanche. theirs just no audio shop around me that will do it for under 900

William B @ 2009-01-27 20:52:05

[All Answers]
well i probably can... but im gonna need to no what the hell a sub is...

roshamboe @ 2009-01-27 20:59:37

Some things to know http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com

sparky3489 @ 2009-01-27 21:09:57

In short, yes. Anyone who can hold a power drill can build a sub box. The hard part is not the building however, it is the designing of the box that you are paying for.



If the sub-woofer you bought has a recommended specs for a box (which all reputable brands do) all you need to do is get a lot of thick MDF then cut, glue, screw and silicone. If your sub doesn't have these however it will need to be designed properly, otherwise you may run the subs in an enclosure which is too small/big for the sub and you risk ruining your subs. This is what you are paying for.



Good luck,



Ben

Ben S @ 2009-01-27 21:46:44

[Subject]
How do I Install a CAPACITOR?
[Question]
I know that It has to be charged but how?

Do I remove the negative wire from the Actualy Battery?



Also I need all the info step by step..



Also is it going to work..

The Capacitor is 0.5.

450 watts Amp.

and My subs are 2x 1000 watts.



I need help asap thanks.
could someone give me their msn & il add them who can realy help me with this..



Thanks in advance

roc-a-killa @ 2009-01-27 20:36:46

[All Answers]
The thing is, people get confused in the real purpose of a cap. It is not used to cure or prevent dimming lights nor will it change the way the system sounds (both are misconceptions).



To understand the purpose you need to understand how they work.



A cap does it's best to keep the voltage at a certain level, but if the voltage changes so will the cap voltage. The cap just makes the change smoother. The diming light syndrome isn't a voltage issue but rather a current (amperage) drop. The voltage simply follows what the current does. A cap does not help this situation at all. A cap doesn't provide more power nor does it try to correct it.



A cap is perfect for a noisy voltage line or if the car has fast, erratic voltage spikes/drops. This is why caps are used in AC to DC power supplies as they are used to smooth out the DC ripple for a more smooth DC output.



The ONLY cure for dimming lights is a more hefty amperage source, the alternator.



The REAL powerplant of the car is the alternator. The ONLY purpose of the battery is to start the car and run the accessories with the engine off, nothing else.



______________________



To install:



It's best to install it as close to the amp as possible. You may need to get additional power and ground wire the same size you have now. Otherwise, cut the ground and power wire leaving enough room to mount it. The overall length of the ground wire should as short as possible (18" or less if possible, not critical).



Remove the fuse at the battery. If you don't have one, you need one that is rated the same as the total fuses that are on the amp. It must be no more than 18" from the battery.



Connect the ground from the chassis to the cap then to the amp.



Connect the the power wire (from fuse by the battery) to the cap then to the amp.



To charge the cap, get a 12v light bulb with leads. Temporarily connect the power wire from the battery to one side of the bulb (at the fuse) and connect the other side of the bulb to the wire going to the cap. The bulb will light and over a period of time (10-20 seconds) it will get dimmer. When the bulb goes out, the cap is charged. Basically, your going to put the light bulb where the fuse was.



Now you can re-install the fuse.



_______________________



IMPORTANT: Make/print a sign/note that states:



"WARNING: This vehicle employs a large electrolytic capacitor for the electrical/audio system. The capacitor holds a charge EVEN when disconnected. When changing the battery, remove this fuse. Take caution and charge the capacitor prior to replacing this fuse. SEVERE INJURY OR DAMAGE MAY RESULT IN FAILURE TO COMPLY!"



Have a big red arrow pointing to the fuse and one of those yellow triangles with the exclamation point in the center. Laminate this sign and place it near the fuse by the battery.



Something like this:



http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/sparky3489/CapWarning.jpg

sparky3489 @ 2009-01-27 20:41:14

1 unpluged the battery for safety

2 disconnect the positive cable from sub amp and connect to cap

3 ran cable from cap to amp...the cap is mainly for your subwoofer...the positive cable that goes on your amp first goes to your cap and then to your amp...there is no negative and if there is it will go to the frame of your vehicle... last step connect it back (battery)...it will charge by itself

mr know it all @ 2009-01-27 20:57:13

nope, you don't need to disconnect the negative from the battery. if you did, there would be no electricity to charge the cap.

here is how to wire & charge a cap:

pwr cable from battery pos --> 12 volt test light --> pos terminal of cap...Ground cable from neg terminal of cap --> car chassis ground of your choosing.

with the car running, the test light will slowly dim all the way out. (takes no more than a minute) When it goes out the cap is finished charging. now connect the cap like this:

pwr cable from bat. pos -->cap pos. --> amp pos. The ground cable should still be going from the cap neg. to car chassis

It's a must that all your connections are clean.

Just going by convention, your .5 Farads should do the trick for a 450W amp.

Bill D @ 2009-01-27 20:58:44